Trip Report: Tour du Mont Blanc: Part II

Jan 4, 2017

August 11/2015

Stage 7: La Fouly to Champex
Accommodations: Pension en Plein Air 67CHF (even more !!!)-Demi-pension
Distance: 15km
Elevation 420m up, 565m dn

My young, yet creaking body felt a slight respite in the morning. Thank goodness, let’s hope this keeps up. After shaking the chills from yesterday’s storm, we were fully energized with yet another scrumptious breakfast. The upcoming day seemed rather low-key, so I vowed to take my time to assist in recovery. We bought lunch at the town grocery and had a brief chat with the group of Israeli campers. Afterwards, we set off on the rather boring trek to Champex. It started off meandering through small valley towns, but soon turned into a hill climb through a forest with obstructed views. Nothing too exciting when presented in comparison with previous days. However we did run into a climbing crag, which I was sure to make note of so that I may make an excuse to visit again. I’ll be back sometime.

The uphill climb aggravated the knee and my pace started to drop. Once arriving in Champex-lac, we quickly retreated to our accommodations so I could stretch and foam roll my IT band. Instant relief. Today was the first day we really felt the fatigue kick in. Only 4 more days to reach the bittersweet ending.

August 12/2015

Stage 8: Champex -> Col de la Forclaz
Accommodations: Hotel du Col de la Forclaz 61CHF(!!)
Distance: 16km
Elevation: 742m up, 682m dn

I think at this point we were becoming spoiled with european hospitality - breakafast was not exciting. Maybe the fatigue was starting to accumulate and I was becoming grouchy. On the bright side, my knee was feeling much better; however, we did have to opt-out of the Fenêtre route as a precautionary measure. The hike started as a nice hillside climb through meadows dotted with cattle throughout. The cows were rather friendly, but speaking from experience, it seemed it was just a facade to steal your hiking gear…

Today, the views felt incredibly scenic in comparison to yesterday. We pushed through to the col and found the most expensive place on the earth. 4 Euros for a coca-cola?! No way. We decided to avoid any extra purchases here. Supper, at least, was excellent. Started with a delicious vegetable soup then had chicken, ratatouille, cauliflower, and french fries. The desert was a tasty ice cream. Following supper was a nice, sweaty, night from hell. Again, someone decides to shut the window of a room of 20+ people. Perhaps it is just my Canadian raising, but 40 degrees is beyond healthy. I felt like I was on the verge of heat stroke during my slumber.

August 13/2015

Stage 9: Col de la Forclaz -> Tré le Champ
Accommodations: Gite le Moulin 38€
Distance: 13km
Elevation: 1069m up, 1178m dn

After co-miserating about the sauna-like sleeping conditions, we set of for Tré le Champ. Initially you descent to Trient and follow a long shallow gradient up through the forest, eventually reaching open meadows. Continuing to climb, we reached Col de Balme a.k.a. “Col de la Grincheux Dame Française.” Seriously. Don’t stop here. Keep walking. We had ordered a 4€ omelette (or 12CHF, due to some shady exchange rates). The cranky old lady talked behind our back occasionally as we waited the 45 minutes for a mediocre omelette in which we had to share. Perhaps we should have paid in Francs. I wish we knew what we had done wrong. After deciphering the puzzle telling us where to go to continue the TMB, we set off for Aguille de Posettes.

Finally, back in France. Vive la France! Vive le not-as-expensive country! It was refreshing to look down into the valley in which we would finish in a couple days. The final descent included a 100+ steep wooden staircase. It was rather tricky to find our exact accomodations, but after a bit of searching (and losing Stefan for a good 30 minutes) it was well worth being off the beaten trail. It was one of the best accommodations on the TMB. The place was run by a very friendly, generous French man. Some of the cheapest prices, yet the best food, service, bedding, and even let us use his printer! Felt like I was just at home. Supper included tasty ribs, potatoes, and a very good desert of bananas in a lime (+mint?) sauce. I wish I had gotten the recipe.

August 14/2015

Stage 10: Tré le Champ -> La Flégére
Accommodations: Refuge la Flégére 58€ - Demi-pension
Distance: 8km
Elevation: 733m up, 257m dn

We set off early due to the predicted storm. Although it took us nearly 45 minutes to find the trail head (which is located just up the hill from Tré le Champ, not well marked). Once found, it was an easy trail to follow and one of the coolest hikes of the TMB. Along the trail, you run into a classic climbing crag, and the famous ladder segment of the TMB. Even though the exposure was there, I felt completely secure. Views only became better and better as the hike continued. As stefabn and I strolled on, I buffed up my French grammar, wile taking in the views of the Chamonix valley. It was relatively easy from here on, but still rewarding nonetheless. We reached our accommodations rather early, but it allowed us to rest shortly and spend time doing whatever we could, including rain dances, to prevent the storm which was predicted for our final day, tomorrow.

The supper tonight was the most challenging part of the day. It consisted of a salad, a traditional aprés ski potato dish (similar to scalloped potatoes, but more rich), a cheese platter, and a dessert of choice. I opted for the chocolate mousse. I am full, and cannot move. We eventually migrated to bed, where the approaching storm made us apparent of the old infrastructure of the building. Eventually I got used to the slamming windows and creaking joists. At least it wasn’t a sauna.

August 15/2015

Stage 11: La Flégére -> Les Houches
Accommodations: Gite Michel Fagot 50€ - Demi Pension
Distance 17km
Elevation: 772m up, 1546m dn

FINAL DAY! Although I really enjoyed the hike, I am ready to finish it at this point. The knee is feeling good, and I am ready to hike. Unfortunately, though, clouds were building and we only had so much time to get to our next accommodations before the storm formed. Stefan was on board to start as early as possible to avoid the storm. We descended along the hillside into the valley, eventually reaching an inactive ski hill. From here, we pushed up the hill to approach the final col of the hike. The views here were spectacular, and further on involved a bit of easy scrambling to reach a high observation point above the col. Unfortunately, we were socked in, and could hardly see the hand in front of me.

We decided not to dawdle, so we continued on our descent. Quickly a storm in the distance formed, and approached us. We were aware of an auberge coming up, and as we realized the storm was approaching much more quickly than we felt comfortable, we decided to start running before the lighting had a chance to zap us on this exposed rock face. Just as we arrived, rain began to pour and the owners of the Auberge welcomed us with hot chocolate. We decided to wait it out just in time as we heard a crack of lightning not 1km away from us. As the sky lightened up, we decided to carry on. We pushed steadily to the tree line to establish safety from the surrounding storms. The gruelling descent everyone had talked about finally had come. The trail winds through the trees and nearby roads, eventually reaching the town in which we first had started. We were tired, relieved, and stinky. It was very refreshing to see the exact place which we started 11 days prior. The owner welcomed us in, and we could finally breathe in a sigh of relief. We did it. 170km were behind us, memories stocked up with stories of the unreal experience, and the image of Mont Blanc forever imprinted in our mind.